Santa Pola – still a secret, but a short hop from the city

There’s something about Spain’s Alicante province that finds its way to your heart.  You could holiday here for a lifetime, and still come across a hidden cove, a new restaurant terrace for tapas, or a street market you’ve missed. It’s a place to please every visitor, from its vibrant capital to its coast.

You might want to stay in the city, for the buzz of its beachside bars. Families flock to Dénia, or to Benidorm for full-on fun. But if you’re seeking a town for a day-trip, with a touch of the undiscovered, you could hire a rental car in Alicante and spend some time in Santa Pola.

It’s a bit of an insiders’ secret – some spend a whole holiday here. But it’s a town that’s a real crowd-pleaser, and just a short drive south from the city. You can take a full day for a taster, if you want to find out what the fuss is about, but it could set you thinking about a longer stay. Santa Pola might just combine everything that’s most seductive about this strip of palm-fringed sea.

A castle and some culture – or yacht envy down at the port?

It’s a town that grew from fishing, and that’s still a huge part of its appeal. If you’d like to know more of its background, you can take a guided tour. They start from the tourist office, close to shaded El Palmeral Park, and it’s a few steps from here to some fascinating Roman history. It should come as no surprise that you can see what’s left of a fish factory at the Portus Illicitanus, not a spot for nefarious activity, as the name might suggest, but a hint that Santa Pola was once the Roman Port of Illice.

If you’d rather explore on your own, pick up a map and plan your route. Head for Plaza Glorieta, and the Castle’s hard to miss. It’s now the Town Hall and headquarters for the Guardia Civil, but you can step inside to see a host of historical attractions – there’s a chapel, and  two museums with a maritime theme. There’s no doubt that the town has pride in its heritage, with museums devoted to boats, fishing and even salt – a reminder that some of the stuff that’s sprinkled on your roads in an icy winter might just come from the nearby salt flats.

If you’ve come by car from Alicante, and have toddlers or teens in tow, you might want to give culture a miss and park up near the port. There’s enough going on here to keep everyone amused for a while, watching some swanky vessels arrive in the harbour, or the lively bidding at the fish market. Boats leave here for Tabarca, if an offshore island trip might be just the thing, and there’s a choice of harbourside restaurants when hunger calls.

Go bare, or just go for a paddle

On Monday and Saturday, there’s a street market, so factor in time for a bargain-hunt. And it’s Spain, so there are year-round fiestas, from religious processions to the mid-July fireworks and festivities of the Virgen del Carmen, the protector of fishermen.

You’ll need much more than a day to take full advantage of Santa Pola’s charms. If you’ve booked to stay here, it’s an ideal base for forays to local sights, or just to stay put on a blue-flag beach. With fine sand, clear sea, and a bay that has shelter from the breeze, there’s a spot for every type of traveller, from calm waters for a paddle to waves for the windsurfer. And since you’re on vacation, why not throw caution to the wind and go nudist? Playa Pinet is secluded, and reached on foot from Santa Pola’s southwest side.

If you’re not quite brave enough to go bare, try out some of the town’s unique gastronomy. It’s known for dishes you won’t find elsewhere. Red prawns for gamba roja a la plancha come straight from Santa Pola’s bay, or the sweet-toothed can taste coca boba – ‘crazy cake’ – although it’s a light, lemony sponge, and delicious, though not particularly strange.

Santa Pola is small enough for an intimate feel, and walkable when you want a day away from big-city bustle. For the best of both, you could book yourself a two-centre trip, start out at Alicante, then rent a car for a few days and get to know a town where you’ll soon start to feel like a local. Those regulars know a thing or two about what makes a memorable holiday – stay in Santa Pola, and you’re soon in on the secret.